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| History of the olive
oil |
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Against the
green of the sweet hills of
Umbria the silver leaves of the
olive stand out. From many
aspects the cultivation of the
olive could be said to
represent this region well. In
fact, the olive is the biblical
and universal symbol of peace,
it recalls great religious
values, so important in soil
that not only for its
conformation [orografica] has
been called "the Holy Earth of
Italy". It suffices to remember
the great Umbrian saints (like
Benedict of Norcia, Francis of
Assisi and the Holy Claire, and
Rita of Cascia), the big
sanctuaries and the other
magnificent religious buildings
that punctuate the region. But
the olive, vine of great
longevity and slow growth, well
represents the ability of this
region to safeguard
[amorevolmente] lay traditions,
handed down from generation to
generation. And finally, the
palatable Umbrian oil well
represents the regional
cookery, those simple and
artless things made from
genuine and wholesome
foods. |
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THE
ETRUSCANS |
| In
Umbria the cultivation of the olive is among
the most ancient of Italy, given that the first
to take care of this fertile tree were the
Etruscans. One of the most powerful cities of
Etruria, the ancient Volsinio, today Orvieto,
drew its affluence and prosperity from
agricultural production, including the commerce
of olive oil. |
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THE
ROMANS |
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Already in the
first century B.C. olive oil was among the most
remarkable agricultural productions of Umbria.
The active "harbor of the oil" was Otricoli,
situated in an ancient and ample bend of the
Tevere River, then tunneled for deflecting the
course of that river. From there the oil
reached the capital city, Ove. Umbrian oil was
considered among the more valuable: gourmets
preferred it to oils produced in Iberia and
Dalmatia.
With the growth
of the Roman civilization came the incentive to
increase the cultivation. In fact many
patricians chose this region for their country
villas. Countless finds, like the "dolii"
(typical Roman containers) and edges of large
[ziri] have been found in the proximity of the
Roman villas, in the zone among the Tevere and
the Black, to testify of a very diffuse
consumption. Finds can also be admired in many
of the museums of the Umbrian cities. A fine
example of which is safeguarded in the room of
the Town Counsel of Citta’ di Castello: a
fragment of a dolio marked by a rectangular
stamp that confirms its ancient
history.
At Narni, under
the Abbey of Saint Stephen, has been found a
vase with writing framed by olive branches.
Near Trevi, in the locale of Borgo, has come to
light a complete crusher, built in stone grit,
blessed with an enormous earthen dolio, noted
for the excellent conservation of the oil, then
a privilege exclusively reserved for the upper
classes.
At Orvieto,
visiting the caves and tunnels that have been
dug under the cliff of volcanic tufa (there are
more than a thousand), to the N° 536, close to
the church of Saint Francis, you go along one
of the terraced crags to the southern border of
the cliff. Here hides, still in the depths, a
crusher called "the mill of Holy Claire". It
has pressed olives from the time of the
Etruscans up to the 17th century A.D. Perhaps
it was not the unique example of the zone but
it is the only one to have been found that is
accessible to visitors. The enormous burrs in
basalt, the closets used for the olives, the
oil tank, the stalls for the animals that must
have furnished the energy to turn the
grindstones, these testify of a very productive
installation which was surely industrial in
character.
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THE
MIDDLE AGE |
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The barbaric
invasions put an end to the oil trading and
were probably responsible for the slow
abandonment of the olive tree and its
cultivation. In medieval times, with the
extension of the large estates and vast
ecclesiastical holdings, appear the first
obligations for the colonists and the tenants
to establish each year a certain number of
olive plantings and graftings. The restoration
begins.
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THE
RENAISSANCE |
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During the 6th
century were written treatises in which the
Umbrian olives are praised. In 1577 Leandro
Alberto of Bologna published "A Description of
All Italy and Her Islands". Here are the
passages regarding Umbria:
Of Perugia is
written: "She is set on the hill of the
Appennines, in the best part of the picturesque
territory, delectable, fertile hills, from
which one draws good wines, oil, figs, apples
and other palatables."
Of Spoleto:
"They come from every side of the Flaminia to
find this beautiful fertile plain, adorned by
different orders of trees and vines, with many
brooklets of clear waters. In addition they see
great crowds of almond trees, and olives, where
in the early winter great numbers of thrushes
are seized as they descend from the mountains
to look for the olive for their food…She is
able to be numbered among the beautiful and
fertile places of Italy."
Still of
Spoleto: "Here they find copious amounts of
wine, oil, almonds and other fruits." On the
"Walk to Temi" is annotated: "From Spoleto
therefore enter walking in the rocky Valle di
Strettura along the Flaminia, placed among
soaring cliffs, in whose near end to Terno,
from 4 miles you find again olives sheltering
with vineyards and other fertile
trees."
The Valnerina:
"The produce of this area (whether of plain or
of hills) are good and palatable fruits with
wine of each manner, that is vernacce, austere
moscatells, common, and also a great abundance
of oil."
The soils of
Castel Todino and of Sangemini; "The
surrounding country is so beautiful, as far as
the eye can see. There are hills all full of
vines, olives, fig trees, and other
fruits."
Finally, Amelia
"It is good and fruitful territory, placed
above the picturesque hills, adorned with vines
and fertile trees, and it yields wheat, wine,
oil, and other necessary things for nurturing
the life of mortals."
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| ::PARTICULARLY
FAVORABLE ENVIRONMENTAL
CONDITIONS |
| The
olives cultivated in Umbria enjoy more or less
all of the particular climatic conditions that
allow a very slow maturation of the fruit. This
causes a rate of acidity that is extremely
limited. Particular importance is attributed to
the hill soils and the terraced foothills: rich
terrain of composition that increases the
permeability of the nutrients so that they may
penetrate the roots of the olive trees more
easily. |
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TRADITIONAL
METHODS OF HARVEST AND OF
PRODUCTION |
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To these
climactic conditions must be added the
contributions of man. First of all the harvest
of the olive; it is not delayed beyond the time
that the olive comes to the term of natural
maturation: "general sort" has recently been
the recommendation of picking when it arrives
at the beginning of the maturation, that is
when it results [semi-invaiata] and is present
the maximum of yielded that the minimum of
acidity (beginning of November). Instead we
have preserved the traditional "browse," that
is to say the operative harvest.
Experimentations are being made for the
mechanical collection, but with fit modes to
avoid damaging the olives.
The olives are
not allowed to remain lying in wait for
completion of the harvesting, but instead they
are sent immediately to the crusher, thus
preserving the maximum of their breeziness and
integrity.
Umbria then,
soil of oils by definition and blessed with
distinctive extra virgin olive oils so
palatable that they even hold their own against
the black truffles of the Valnerina. The
fortunate placement of the Umbrian olive trees
(90% grow on the terraced hills and 10% on the
mountains) combined with the conditions of the
earth and of the climate, allow them to give
around 90% of the complete production (80
thousand annual quintals on average) this is,
note, extra virgin: not an insignificant
record!
Today the
success of the Umbrian oil is under the eyes of
all. There has been, it is true, the
affirmation of the Mediterranean diet, but also
has been noted the ability of the Umbrian
producers to enter the market with decisiveness
and to begin to stand out and to dominate it.
Today 60% of the regional oil is sold in
elegant bottles or sealed containers not more
than five kilos; the remaining 40% is consumed
locally.
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